Towards the end of the Georgian and the beginning of the Victorian period, a time when the middle class was beginning to exist and opulence was revered, one particular accent jewel captivated the hearts of both high society and the fashion-conscious masses: seed pearls. Diamonds were just beginning to become commercially available in large amounts and were not yet ready to become the white stone accent staple we know them as today. Meanwhile, pearls (remember, this is before the age of cultured pearls) were considered the most rare and valuable gemstones in the world. Delicate and undeniably elegant, these tiny pearls became the epitome of Victorian style and grace.

Affordable Luxury

Pearls have symbolized purity, innocence, and wealth for millennia. While larger pearls were very highly sought after, the introduction of seed pearls—tiny, perfectly round pearls—ushered in new opportunities for elegance. Harvested from freshwater mollusks, these minuscule pearls were meticulously sorted by size and skillfully incorporated into stunning creations that adorned women of all ranks. These tiny pearls finally gave the average person the ability to own their first real pearl piece of jewelry, an idea many had probably not believed possible in the past.

Craftsmanship at Its Finest

Creating jewelry with seed pearls was a true testament to the skill and patience of Victorian artisans. Each individual pearl, often no larger than a pinhead, was individually drilled and strung onto fine threads or wires or half drilled and glued onto a tiny post. These fragile strands were often meticulously woven into intricate patterns, resulting in mesmerizing jewelry pieces that showcased the delicate beauty of seed pearls.

Unlike most other gemstones, pearls are also incredibly delicate. Drilling into these tiny, easily broken gems (keep in mind this was before the invention of electric drills or even electricity for lighting) and stringing them ornately on wire is a task I am very grateful is not my responsibility.

Queen Victoria's Influence

No discussion of seed pearl jewelry (or any jewelry trend of the Victorian period) would be complete without acknowledging the profound influence of Queen Victoria herself. After the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert, in 1861, Queen Victoria entered a prolonged period of mourning. Her public appearances became fewer, and her jewelry became more downplayed and muted. She also began to wear a lot of mourning jewelry, which would often be composed of a piece of onyx accented with seed pearls. Queen Victoria’s public appreciation, combined with the common use of mourning and other sentimental jewelry styles, the popularity of delicate, understated jewelry soared, with seed pearls becoming a public favorite.

Sentimental Symbolism

As with most jewelry trends in the Georgian and Victorian periods, the symbolism behind the jewelry was as important as the fashion. Pearls had long been known to symbolize luxury, grace and purity. They were frequently used to create intricate motifs such as hearts, flowers, and crosses, symbolizing love, devotion, and faith. Additionally, seed pearl jewelry was often gifted as tokens of affection or presented as wedding jewelry, symbolizing the eternal bond between partners.

Types of Seed Pearl Jewelry

Seed pearls were not just designated for mourning and wedding jewelry. Seed pearl accents in jewelry came in a wide array of designs, with each piece reflecting the Victorian’s appreciation for delicate detailing. Necklaces, bracelets, brooches, earrings, and tiaras adorned with seed pearls were all the rage. Most often set in gold or silver and used to accent ornate designs or other gemstones, these jewels exuded a subtle opulence that perfectly complemented the refined tastes of the era.

Seed Pearls Lose Their Luster

While seed pearl jewelry reached the pinnacle of its popularity during the Victorian era, their use in jewelry continued for decades. The widespread availability of diamonds slowly reduced the demand for seed pearls over time, probably because they were far easier for jewelers to work with and served a similar purpose in regards to offering a small, white accent stone. The durability of diamonds also meant that people would be able to wear them freely without worrying as much about their favorite piece breaking. Even as popularity slowly dwindled, seed pearl jewelry can be commonly found throughout the Edwardian and Art Deco periods.

How to Care for Seed Pearls

To ensure the longevity and beauty of seed pearl jewelry, proper care is essential. Due to their delicate nature, these tiny pearls require gentle handling and protection from harsh chemicals, moisture, and excessive heat. It's advisable to store them separately in a soft pouch or jewelry box, away from other pieces that may scratch or damage them. Occasional cleaning with a soft cloth is all they need to maintain their luster and shine, ensuring that these precious treasures can be enjoyed for years to come.

If you are cleaning a stone in a piece of jewelry with seed pearl accents, it is best to avoid using the jewelry cleaning solutions you may normally use for diamonds, rubies or sapphires. The best solution would be mild mixture of Dawn dish soap and warm water being scrubbed softly with a tooth brush before being rinsed off with water. Drying them with a hair dryer would not be recommended.

From Victorian Times to Today

From Queen Victoria's personal preference to the sentimental symbolism it carried, seed pearl jewelry captured the hearts of Victorian society and continues to fascinate vintage jewelry enthusiasts today. As we admire these tiny treasures, we are reminded of the artistry and legacy of a bygone era. However, the allure of seed pearl jewelry doesn't end with mere admiration, these pieces are still suitable to being worn today. The internet opening up the past to fashion influencers has led to everyone having the ability to craft their own unique style. The elegance that defined the Victorian era has certainly found a place in modern fashion.


More Pictures of Antique Seed Pearl Focused Jewelry







Article by: Joseph Denaburg

When most people hear the name Levy's, one of the first things to enter their mind is that famous voice they hear on the radio around Christmas time. 

The concept began with a brainstorming session between Jared, Todd and Monty Ballard from Style Advertising when Monty first picked up our account in the 1990s. The plan was to create a personal feel using this voice that sounds so much like the iconic "Chicago Jewish Grandmother", while showcasing her wicked sense of humor and creating a mystique that made people question whether this unique voice actually belonged to a real person in Birmingham. 

As time went on, the ads shifted to a more "Love Line" feel where Rhoda would offer humorous relationship advice, because we all know the quickest way to a woman's heart is with jewelry! Fast forward another decade and the ads have shifted to social media and movie/song/sports references that sound hilariously hip coming from this famous voice.

As a way of commemorating the voice that we so enjoy hearing on a daily basis, we have decided to collect and archive all of the past radio commercials that we were able to get our hands on. 

Dating back to 2007, we have 2 radio ads for each year, with the exception of 2012, which was not able to be easily recovered. And as an added bonus, the image in the video is a throwback to Rhoda dressed as Santa Claus in the 90s! We hope you all enjoy listening to these commercials again as much as we have!

 

Our Youtube Playlist featuring all of Rhoda's recovered radio commercials from 2007-2019

 

February14

Who is Cupid?

Article by: Joseph Denaburg and Irisa Kahn

Eros – Cupid’s Greek Origins

The original “Cupid” dates all the way back to Ancient Greek Mythology, depicted as the winged God of love and fertility, Eros. Eros famously carried a bow and was armed with two sets of arrows: golden arrows to inspire love and leaden arrows to inspire hate. He was known to fly around and shoot people with arrows, magically inciting conflict and love stories for his own amusement.

As time progressed, Eros’ story shifted dramatically. Eros was originally the son of Chaos, but tradition changed and he was later recognized as the son of Aphrodite, the Goddess of Love, and either Zeus, Ares or Hermes. His earliest depictions are that of a handsome young man, but during the time of Alexander the Great, poets began to reimagine Eros as mischievous child. As time went on, he continued to age in reverse until he finally became an infant during the Hellenistic period (323-31 BC).

How Cupid Got His Name – The Shift From Greek to Roman Mythology

The name “Cupid” comes from the name of the Roman god of love, who seems to be a pretty identical replica to Eros. The most notable difference between Roman the winged child god and his Greek counterpart is that Cupid only had one set of arrows designed to inspire passionate love.

Cherub vs Cupid – Christian Influences Take Over Ancient Tradition

As Christianity began to make it’s way across Europe, the fascination with the winged child god remained. Renaissance artists, most notably, Italian painter, Raphael, included in their work winged babies called “putti”. These winged characters represented pure love and always featured the wings of an angel.

The word “putti” comes from the Latin word “putus”, which means “boy”, but strong Christian influences resulted in people referring to them as “cherubs”, which is a reference to the cherubim angels who were charged with protecting God’s heavenly glory and carrying out God’s will.

Cupid = Love

Like so many themes that have evolved over time, the symbolism behind the Cupid has become a permanent representation of pure love. As Valentine’s Day has continued to evolve over millennia, it is only appropriate that the cherub has evolved as the holiday’s chief mascot: an adorable symbol of purity and love personified in the most logical form, an angelic child. So, while hearts may seem like the main symbol to represent Valentine’s Day, Cupid’s arrow is where that love begins.

The original “Cupid” dates all the way back to Ancient Greek Mythology, depicted as the winged God of love and fertility, Eros. Eros famously carried a bow and was armed with two sets of arrows: golden arrows to inspire love and leaden arrows to inspire hate. He was known to fly around and shoot people with arrows, magically inciting conflict and love stories for his own amusement.

Article by: Joseph Denaburg

Everyone knows that diamonds are rare, but the very finest diamonds are even more incredibly scarce. Large diamonds with a near perfect standard of color and clarity come on the market once in a blue moon. That was the case on the 13th of November when the stunning 76.02-carat Archduke Joseph Diamond was sold at auction for more than 20m Swiss frank ($21,474,525 USD including commission).

The Archduke Joseph Diamond is one of the most famous, most flawless and most stunningly beautiful diamonds to come on the market in recent years, so it is no surprise that the final sale price broke records for the per-carat price for a colorless stone.

The diamond is generally regarded as the world’s finest cushion cut, with a dazzling standard of brilliance. It is internally flawless, and completely colorless. The Archduke Joseph Diamond is the largest completely colorless and internally flawless diamond to ever be rated by the Gemological Institute of America.

This diamond isn’t just a stunning gem: it also has an impeccable historical pedigree. The extremely high sale price of the diamond is no doubt at least partly indicative of the historical interest behind the stone and its regal lineage.

It was originally excavated from the famous Golconda mines in South Central India. Golconda is known as the origin of some of the world’s finest and most famous diamonds, including the Koh-i-Noor, the centerpiece of Britain’s crown jewels, and the famous Blue Hope diamond.

From there it fell into the hands of Archduke Joseph August of Austria, a Prince of the Hungarian line of the Hapsburg dynasty. As the first recorded owner, the diamond bears his name. He passed it on to his son, who secreted it away in a Hungarian bank vault.

The diamond was then sold to a French banker, who managed to keep it hidden throughout the entirety of World War 2. The next time it surfaced was at auction in 1961, and then again in 1993 where it was bought by Alfredo Molina, CEO of Black, Starr, and Frost jewelers, for around $6.4m USD. It has proven to be a very wise investment for Mr. Molina, who has more than tripled his money in the recent sale.

After his purchase, Mr. Molina took the brave decision to have the diamond re-cut and polished using modern day technology. This shaved several carats off the weight of the diamond, but greatly improved the symmetry and clarity of the stone. It is reasonably unusual to tamper with such a historically significant stone, but as a jewelry expert Mr. Molina felt his company could improve it. It seems he has been proven correctly by the diamond’s exceptionally high sale price.

Speculation is rife about who the new owner of this spectacular stone is. Christies of Geneva, the auction house where it was sold, is remaining tight lipped as to the buyers identity. They aren’t even saying which country the diamond will be going to. However rumor has it that is that the buyer will be donating it to a museum where a wider audience can enjoy it.

Everyone knows that diamonds are rare, but the very finest diamonds are even more incredibly scarce. Large diamonds with a near perfect standard of color and clarity come on the market once in a blue moon. That was the case on the 13th of November when the stunning 76.02-carat Archduke Joseph Diamond was sold at auction for more than 20m Swiss frank ($21,474,525 USD including commission).

Article by: Joseph Denaburg

There are many large, famous diamonds, but the biggest gem-quality diamond ever found was the Cullinan Diamond that weighed in at 3,106 carats. The stone was discovered by a miner employed by the South African Premier Mine by the name of Thomas Evan Powell in 1905. It was named after the owner of the mine, Sir Thomas Cullinan.

Analysis of the Cullinan diamond revealed astounding clarity but also a black spot in the middle. The colors around the spot were brilliant and vacillating as the stone was turned; this indicated strain in the stone, a not uncommon trait of diamonds. It was then purchased by the Transvaal government and given to King Edward VII on his birthday.

In the early 20th century, jewelers did not have access to the technology used today and cutting the diamond was considered a difficult, risky task that could very well end in disaster. Joseph Asscher of Amsterdam, said to be the most skilled cleaver of his time, managed to split the stone in half precisely through its defect. It is said that the knife broke in the first attempt but when the stone finally broke it fell apart as two perfect halves. It was then cut into thirds and eventually into 9 large gem-quality stones and 96 minor stones. The South African government eventually bought the major stones and gifted them to Queen Mary in 1910.

The largest of the major stones that were cut and polished from the Cullinan was Cullinan 1, also known as the Great Star of Africa totaling 530 carats. It was the biggest polished diamond in the world until 1985 when the Golden Jubilee Diamond (545 carats) was found. The Cullinan I, a pear shaped gem, now sits in the head of the Sceptre with the Cross, a sceptre that was crafted for the coronation of King Charles II in 1661. It was redesigned to hold the Cullinan I, which can be removed in order to be worn as a brooch. The Cullinan II, the second largest gem from the original stone, also known as the Lesser Star of Africa, is 317 carats; it is the 4th largest polished diamond on earth and cut in a rectangular cushion cut. Cullinan II now sits in the Imperial State Crown and can be combined with Cullinan I as a brooch. Both stones are part of the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom.

The remainder of the 9 stones became part of the Cambridge and Delhi Dunbar Parure, a suite of emerald and diamond jewelry that was crafted by the crown jewelers for the coronation of King George V in 1911; Mary and George were proclaimed Emperor and Empress of India at a Dunbar in Delhi in December of 1911. Cullinan III, a pear shaped 94 carat stone now is part of a brooch that includes the Cullinan IV, a 63 carat square cushion diamond that was originally the centerpiece of the parure’s tiara. The 18.8 carat heart-shaped Cullinan V was originally part of the stomacher of the parure, a triangular shaped panel that was meant to fill the front opening of a woman’s gown or be attached to the bodice. Cullinan VI, an 11.5 carat marquise cut, was set as a pendant in the parure’s diamond and emerald necklace. Cullinan VII and Cullinan VIII are also part of the stomacher. Cullinan IX is a pear shaped 4.4 carat stone that was set as the bezel in a platinum ring for Queen Mary in 1911.

Speculation persists that the Cullinan diamond is but one fragment of an enormous octahedral crystal, the rest of which is awaiting discovery deep in the bowels of Africa.

There are many large, famous diamonds, but the biggest gem-quality diamond ever found was the Cullinan Diamond that weighed in at 3,106 carats. The stone was discovered by a miner employed by the South African Premier Mine by the name of Thomas Evan Powell in 1905. It was named after the owner of the mine, Sir Thomas Cullinan.
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