Diamonds

How to Buy a Diamond801-2469 - 1.52ct D, SI2 round brilliant cut diamond 2

Buying a diamond can be an intimidating process. For many first time diamond buyers, this is one of the most important/stressful financial decisions he or she has ever made.

To anyone in this position, it is important to remember that you are making this purchase to symbolize what should be the happiest, most significant moment of your life to date. The following information is intended to educate and assist novice and seasoned diamond buyers in understanding the details important in purchasing a diamond and enjoying the process.
 

Why is a Diamond Significant?

Diamonds, named for the Greek word “unbreakable”, have been used in jewelry and religious icons for thousands of years; they are considered by most to be the most widely recognized and highly prized gem in the world. They are synonymous with elegance, luxury and ever-lasting love and bring sparkle and pleasure to all who encounter them. Our diamond birthstone page is loaded with interesting information if you would like to learn more about the history of diamonds.

At Levy’s, we understand that making a diamond selection is a very important decision. With all the standards of perfection, colors, cuts and carats, where is one to start?

The Four C’s of a Diamond’s Grade

The four C’s of diamonds are carat, cut, color and clarity.

Carat

Diamonds are measured by units of weight called, carat, which is equal to 200 milligrams or 0.2 grams. Carats are measured out to the hundredth place to offer precise measurements. Larger diamonds are much more rare than smaller ones and are therefore much more expensive proportionately to their weight than smaller stones of similar quality.

The word “carat” was first used in the 1400’s and comes from the Italian word, carato, which comes from the Greek word kerátion, meaning “carob seed”, the seed on which the measurement used to be based. A “carat” historically had different weights in different countries, and was not universally established as 0.2 grams until the Fourth General Conference on Weights and Measures, in 1907.

Cut

A diamond’s sparkle is created through the mirror-like reflection of light internally amongst the facets. While the cut of a diamond refers often refers to general shape (round, cushion, oval, etc); it can be further broken down to measure a stone’s proportions, symmetry, finish and polish. These factors determine the fire, brilliance, sparkle and overall beauty of the stone, and are graded as either poor, fair, good, very good, excellent. The cut of a diamond is the only factor influencing the stone’s value that is directly affected by humans and where the diamond cutter’s art and skill can truly present itself. A round brilliant triple excellent cut diamond, will reflect light from one mirror-like facet to another, until it releases through the top of the stone, while cuts that are too shallow or deep may impede the natural brilliance and reflectivity.

What Does “Triple Excellent” Mean?

The term “triple excellent” refers to the cut of a stone, which has received the grade of “Excellent” for “Cut Grade”, “Polish” and “Symmetry”. This grade is only available in round brilliant cut diamonds, because fancy cut stones do not receive a “cut grade”.

The “Ideal Cut” Modern Round Brilliant

The Ideal Cut of a diamond describes a round, brilliant stone that has been cut to exact, mathematically correct proportions so that light entering from any direction is 100% reflected through the top and dispersed into a display of sparkling flashes and rainbow of colors.

The first round brilliant cut diamond was designed in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky. A Russian diamond cutter who was fascinated by the reflective qualities of diamonds, Tolkowsky derived a mathematical formula to bring out the optimal amount of brilliance and fire within a stone. He published his work in his book, Diamond Design, in 1919 and technology advancement made finally made it possible to cut stones to these specifications decades later.

Color

Color describes the amount of body color the diamond contains (usually slight tinges of yellow or brown). This ranges from completely colorless to light yellow, with whiter stones usually being considered as more desirable than darker ones. The color is graded from “D” through “Z”, with “D”, “E” and “F” being considered “colorless”. These stones are going to be the most expensive because colorless diamonds are much rarer than stones with a hint of color.

Once you start to move past “Z” in color, the color grade becomes what is considered “fancy”. Fancy colored diamonds can be yellow, brown, black, blue, red, green, or any other color imaginable. These stones are graded on an entirely different scale and can demand much higher prices, depending on rarity. Red diamonds are the rarest (and therefore most expensive), followed by pink, purple, violet, blue and green diamonds. 

Diamond Color Treatments

Sometimes, a diamond is treated to appear whiter than it actually is. These treatments are rare, but can be spotted by a trained gemologist and are recognized and disclosed on most diamond grading reports.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the internal cleanliness of the diamond. Most diamonds include small particles called “inclusions”. These inclusions come from imperfections in the process of carbon (coal) transforming into the diamond over the course of the million plus years this natural process takes to complete. The number, size, nature and location of these inclusions helps to determine a diamond’s clarity grade. Diamonds categorized as flawless (F) or internally flawless (IF) show no inclusions and are the most rare, followed by “VVS1-2” (Very, Very Slightly Included), “VS1-2” (Very Slightly Included), “SI1-2” (Slightly Included) and “I1-3” (Included). By definition, inclusion grades are measured based on their nature, size, location and quantity inside of a stone

diamond clarity chart

What are Inclusions, Really?

There are many different types of inclusions, which can occur internally or externally.

External Inclusions:

Internal Inclusions:

The conditions which allow diamonds to grow can also promote the growth of other crystals, or even other diamonds, inside of the stone. These “inclusions” come in many different shapes, colors and varieties and affect the value on the stone based on their individual size, shape, color and position inside the stone.

Diamond Clarity Enhancements

Sometimes a diamond is treated to remove or cover up inclusions inside a stone. These treatments are detectible by a trained gemologist and are usually disclosed on a diamond grading report. When grading a clarity enhanced diamond, the grader always refers to the clarity grade of the stone, before the treatment. GIA will disclose the treatment on laser drilled stones, but will not grade stones with temporary treatments, such as fracture filling.

Who Came Up With the System for Grading Diamonds?

Robert M. Shipley, a well-known jeweler in his day, created the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) with the goal of protecting the reputation of the jewelry industry by setting the standards for gemstone grading.

robert-m-shipley-sr

GIA founder, Robert M Shipley Sr – Photo credits: GIA

Experiencing and recognizing the general lack of expertise amongst American jewelers in regards to the gemstones they bought and sold, Shipley traveled to Europe, where he completed the Great Britain National Association of Goldsmiths gemological correspondence course. Upon his return to Los Angeles, Robert Shipley was inspired to create his own course in gemology on September 16, 1930, with the goal of training and certifying jewelers.

This course, and Mr Shipley’s actions, paved the way for legitimizing gemology as a recognized science; due to his contributions to the jewelry industry and the field of gemology, Robert Shipley was recently named JCK’s Person of the Century. Among GIA’s early contributions to gemology include patenting a jewelers loupe with a triple aplanatic lens in 1934, patenting the world’s first gemological microscope in 1937 and establishing a diamond grading system based on Shipley’s Four C’s, in 1953 which quickly became the international standard for measuring diamond quality.

Today, GIA continues to set the standard for gemological advancement by training and certifying aspiring gemologists and developing innovational methods to detect treatments and synthetics in diamonds and gemstones.

Diamond Grading Labs: What’s the Difference?

Not all diamond grading labs are created equal. Many grading labs offer companies generously graded reports to encourage them to send more stones to their lab. This makes the stone look really good on paper, but ultimately, it means a customer could end up purchasing a stone, which might not match the quality represented on the certificate.

Gemoligical Institute of America (GIA)– GIA is considered to be the touchstone of diamond grading in the jewelry industry. Their grading system has set the industry standard, and their standards on diamond grading are stricter than any lab in the world. A GIA report guarantees the quality of the diamond you are buying.

European Gemological Lab (EGL)– EGL is actually a name used by a group of laboratories which are not affiliated with each other in any way. The most popular of these labs being EGL-International, EGL-Israel and EGL-USA.

EGL-International and EGL-Israel are both notorious in the diamond industry for offering reports that are often considered to be so inaccurate that they are typically discarded. Some of these reports can differ by up to 4 color grades and 2 clarity grades when the same stone is graded by GIA. They have also been known to greatly exaggerate other important grading factors such as cut and fluorescence. Often difficult to notice to the untrained eye, these misrepresentations can cost unaware consumers thousands of dollars.

EGL-USA is considered to be the most credible of the independent EGL laboratories. These reports are usually on par with GIA (when grading the same exact stone), rarely differing by more than 1 grade in color or clarity.

American Gem Society (AGS)– AGS is a credible diamond lab that is usually on par with GIA’s diamond grading standards. AGS prides themselves on the fact that they were the first grading laboratory to introduce “cut” grades. In an AGS report, the color, clarity and cut are graded on a scale of 1-10, with the best grade being “Triple Zero”.

Other Independent Grading LabsThere are many other diamond and colored stone grading labs around the world, some of which are far more credible than others. It should be noted though, that not all unknown laboratories offer inaccurate reports.

The best way to make sure you are getting an accurately graded stone that is not graded by GIA is to view it under magnification next to a similar stone which is GIA certified.

Kimberly Process

The Kimberly Process is a joint initiative involving governments, industry and civil society established to halt the flow of conflict diamonds (rough diamonds mined by children or used by rebel movements to finance wars against legitimate governments). The Kimberly Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) was created in 2000 when Southern African diamond-producing states met in Kimberly, South Africa to discuss a way to stop the trade of conflict diamonds.

The KPCS imposes extensive requirements on its members to enable them to certify shipments of rough diamonds as Conflict-Free, preventing conflict diamonds from entering legitimate trade. Participants of the Kimberly Process may only trade with other members who have met minimum requirements of the scheme. Since the inception of the Kimberly Process, diamond experts estimate that a fraction of one percent of diamonds in international trade are conflict diamonds compared to 15% in the 1990’s.

Recycled Diamonds

The increasing popularity of recycled diamonds, stones reused from older pieces of jewelry, has also played a significant role in protecting the environment.

How Do I Take Care of My Diamond?

Diamonds are the hardest substance known to man, but they are not entirely indestructible. They can potentially be chipped when hit at the right angle or when repeatedly rubbed up against another diamond.

Aside from physical damage, diamonds can get dirty very quickly from everyday things like soap, hand lotion or hairspray and begin to lose their sparkle. Diamonds are very easily to clean and scrubbing with a toothbrush and warm water/soap solution is usually enough to bring back the shine. If that doesn’t work, we are always happy to clean your diamond jewelry, completely free of charge.